Humminbird P-Max 170 Fish Finder Install

For starters, ensure you have all the tools and supplies that you need. Nothing ruins an install more than 3 or 4 trips to the store that rob you of momentum…

I’m a big fan of stainless steel hardware, so that’s what I used.

Next, I started working on a spot for my transducer. I decided that right below me would be the most accurate spot. I decided to protect it with a foam block, since I keep spare paddles and such inside my hull. The key is to start with a block that is thick enough that you can shave it to match the shape of the hull.

I sanded the area where the block would go, cleaned it VERY well with alcohol and applied LEXEL to the bottom of the block. I taped it in place.

…and then put a deflated beach ball over the top.

I inflated it enough to press the block down to conform to the hull, but not to distort it.

While that was curing, and I gave it almost 48 hours, I began mounting the base. While not in these photos, I spent a lot of time on the water and in the boat in my driveway figuring out where stuff would be out of the way, yet reachable. I also coordinated it with my RAM GPS mount install, which is in a separate post.
The key, as others have mentioned, is to install the bolts one at a time. I used Allen head as much as possible to deter theft.

The eagle-eyed among you will notice that 2 of the 3 screws are phillips instead of allen. That’s because I decided to place a deck loop underneath and wasn’t able to get allen screws of the proper length. The loop serves as a washer and also a place to tie up loose cables. RAM mount holes are in a pattern that allows for this…

By now, it was time to mount the transducer. I believe in LEXEL, but please heed this warning – PURCHASE IT IN A CAULK TUBE! I had to fill the cavity in my block so that the transducer could be worked down into the LEXEL until the transducer was 1/4 above the hull.

Then, I encapsulated the transducer. This protects it and makes the temperature reading a bit more accurate. I know it’ll never be as accurate as a sensor that is IN the water, but this helps. Anyway, unless you have Popeye arms, USE A CAULK GUN!

Next, I had to run my cables. I decided to go the rubber stopper route. Find one that is the right size, prepare the hull by drilling a hole (After careful marking, of course!) then put the stopper in the hole.

I marked a line above where it bottomed out so that it would be a tight squeeze to get the stopper to fit and then cut a groove.

Some holes and a slice to access the channel I had just made for the cables and it was ready to install…

After fitting, LEXEL seals it all up.

I didn’t document the battery box as well, but here are the highlights – Pick a good, watertight box and make sure it has enough foam to keep things from moving around. Ensure that the + battery connection is the one that gets the 1A inline fuse…

I decided to mark my connectors and chose to use a spade for one and a socket for the other so that there is NO WAY to reverse the leads.

I made sure everything had LEXEL to keep it in place and watertight. It may not be perfect, but if I ever have enough water in my hull to get in that box, hit the leads and fry the battery, I have MUCH LARGER issues to deal with!
I used pool noodle on both sides and the bottom of the box so that it now rests between the scuppers. This puts the weight in a good area and keeps the box from moving around.

The finished product –

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