Humminbird P-Max 170 Fish Finder Install

Payne Outdoors

For starters, ensure you have all the tools and supplies that you need. Nothing ruins an install more than 3 or 4 trips to the store that rob you of momentum…

I’m a big fan of stainless steel hardware, so that’s what I used.

Next, I started working on a spot for my transducer. I decided that right below me would be the most accurate spot. I decided to protect it with a foam block, since I keep spare paddles and such inside my hull. The key is to start with a block that is thick enough that you can shave it to match the shape of the hull.

I sanded the area where the block would go, cleaned it VERY well with alcohol and applied LEXEL to the bottom of the block. I taped it in place.

…and then put a deflated beach ball over the top.

I inflated it enough to press the block down to conform to the hull, but not to distort it.

While that was curing, and I gave it almost 48 hours, I began mounting the base. While not in these photos, I spent a lot of time on the water and in the boat in my driveway figuring out where stuff would be out of the way, yet reachable. I also coordinated it with my RAM GPS mount install, which is in a separate post.
The key, as others have mentioned, is to install the bolts one at a time. I used Allen head as much as possible to deter theft.

The eagle-eyed among you will notice that 2 of the 3 screws are phillips instead of allen. That’s because I decided to place a deck loop underneath and wasn’t able to get allen screws of the proper length. The loop serves as a washer and also a place to tie up loose cables. RAM mount holes are in a pattern that allows for this…

By now, it was time to mount the transducer. I believe in LEXEL, but please heed this warning – PURCHASE IT IN A CAULK TUBE! I had to fill the cavity in my block so that the transducer could be worked down into the LEXEL until the transducer was 1/4 above the hull.

Then, I encapsulated the transducer. This protects it and makes the temperature reading a bit more accurate. I know it’ll never be as accurate as a sensor that is IN the water, but this helps. Anyway, unless you have Popeye arms, USE A CAULK GUN!

Next, I had to run my cables. I decided to go the rubber stopper route. Find one that is the right size, prepare the hull by drilling a hole (After careful marking, of course!) then put the stopper in the hole.

I marked a line above where it bottomed out so that it would be a tight squeeze to get the stopper to fit and then cut a groove.

Some holes and a slice to access the channel I had just made for the cables and it was ready to install…

After fitting, LEXEL seals it all up.

I didn’t document the battery box as well, but here are the highlights – Pick a good, watertight box and make sure it has enough foam to keep things from moving around. Ensure that the + battery connection is the one that gets the 1A inline fuse…

I decided to mark my connectors and chose to use a spade for one and a socket for the other so that there is NO WAY to reverse the leads.

I made sure everything had LEXEL to keep it in place and watertight. It may not be perfect, but if I ever have enough water in my hull to get in that box, hit the leads and fry the battery, I have MUCH LARGER issues to deal with!
I used pool noodle on both sides and the bottom of the box so that it now rests between the scuppers. This puts the weight in a good area and keeps the box from moving around.

The finished product –

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3 thoughts on “Humminbird P-Max 170 Fish Finder Install

  1. Great blog, we recently fitted our fish sounders and this would have made it sooo much easier. I will let my club have this link!! Thanks again

  2. Hiiiiiiiiiiii
    Wonderful blog. used pool noodle on both sides and the bottom of the box so that it now rests between the scuppers. This puts the weight in a good area and keeps the box from moving around.

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