WS Ride 135 Rudder Install

Payne Outdoors

Last install for a while (maybe) –
I’m a big fan of a rudder, especially dealing with current and tide. So, HOOK1 provided one from Harmony. The Ride 135 is “Rudder Ready”, which means that it already has tubes run inside the hull for the rudder cables, and inserts are put in the hull where the rudder block and lifting lines will go. Begin by removing the filler screws from the stern –

Install the rudder block. However, leave the bolts a tad loose, as you may need to cant it to one side or the other to get the rudder blade to align perpendicular to the hull –

I did need to shift the rudder block a tad, but now everything is nice and straight –

Now, the retaining ring is in the rudder post and the rudder is placed in the stowed position –

The next thing is to attach the rudder cables to the rudder itself, prior to running them inside the hull. I straightened them out and placed them on top of the hull –

Then I attached the ends to the rudder. The instructions say to put the cables on top of the control arms –

Next, feed the cables through the hull. The directions say that you might have to tape the end of the cable, but I didn’t and it was a piece of cake to feed through. At the very end, you may need to “pop” it through the end of the tube, as I did, but it wasn’t hard at all –

And there it is –

The next step is to run the turtle, or lifting, lines. Start by removing the filler screws –

As you lay out the lines, you can put the guides on. They do not provide enough long screws to put a gasket under every one, and the directions only call for them on the rear two. I also chose to use the light duty Locktite on all of these fasteners –

By the time I shot this photo, all of the lines were in and adjustments made. [i][b]NOTE[/b][/i] – I had all the lines laid out and run, and realized that the lines were wrong. Pulling forward on the BOTTOM line should deploy the rudder. Pulling forward on the TOP line is supposed to stow the rudder. Fortunately, I hadn’t made any final cuts/knots and was able to reverse it –

Next, you have to remove the existing footbraces. The directions don’t tell you how, but I learned (after a few frustrating minutes) that there are washers and nuts inside the hull that you need to hold in place with a socket while you take the screws out. Fortunately, the hatches give pretty easy access to each end. No photo, as there is no value in showing stuff that you’re pulling off!
Something ELSE the instructions don’t tell you – Even though the existing footbraces used nuts/washers/bolts, the new ones don’t. The instructions aren’t particularly clear, so I hope this helps. First, I had to open the existing holes up with a 1/4″ drill bit to facilitate the new hardware, which is 1/4 20 –

You have to reach inside the hull to put the screws in from the back side, as the extrusions are threaded, and I don’t know how I would have done it without an offset screwdriver –

The extrusion, which will allow the footbraces to slide, installed –

As you can see, there IS room for the screws to come through and still let the footbraces slide. You better believe I used Locktite on these screws!!! –

Next, you have to put the footbraces in the extrusions and center them. It says to mark the centers and secure them so they won’t move, and I took this opportunity to use every man’s favorite tool – DUCT TAPE! –

I put the heat shrink and ferrules on –

Then I installed the cables through the foot braces and pulled them tight and crimped the ferrules to hold them –

Cut the remaining cable, slide the heatshrink down to cover everything and melt ‘er down –

Here they are, after I went back with Goof-Off to get rid of the adhesive from the duct tape  😳  –

Now, it’s time to test. The picture is horrible, but the idea is to have the hull supported, but free room under the rudder blade so that you can check that the rudder will deploy and stow properly and at the same time, check the foot controls to ensure that the rudder operates correctly. The footbraces are now adjusted for me, but have enough adjustment left for someone either taller or shorter than me –

A little STS will keep things quiet when I stow the rudder –

The HOOK1 Edition 2012 Wilderness Systems Ride 135 –

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